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Lambrusco di Sorbara has a unique history, tied to the area immediately surrounding the village of Sorbara, northeast of Modena. The sparkling wines of this DOC come from a particular clone of the red lambrusco grape. The Cantina della Volta, founded in 2010 by Christian Bellei, operates out of the same building Christian’s great-grandfather built as the Cantina Bellei. The winery looks out over the Naviglio di Bomporto at the spot where 18th-century canal boats would turn around (“la volta”) to return to Modena—hence the cantina’s name and riverboat logo. In crafting his line of high-quality sparkling wines, however, Christian drew from the venerable tradition of a different region: Champagne. He and his father, Giuseppe, studied the traditional method of Champagne production in Epernay before applying a similar method to their lambruscos. Long aging in the bottle, followed by disgorgement and dosage, give Bellei’s sparkling wines a character that is at once uniquely Italian and French. This brut rosé lambrusco draws from the 2015 vintage, hand-picked in the third week of September of that year. It spent at least 41 months on the lees and received a dosage of 5.5 grams per liter. With warm bread, red berries, peach, and flowers on the nose, this elegant sip unfolds with pomegranate, citrus, and spice on the palate.