Domaine de Montbourgeau l'Etoile AOC 2018

White wines from the Jura region of eastern France are known for their being aged sous voile—that is, under a layer of naturally occurring yeast that enables a slow oxidation of the wine in the barrel. The mineral-rich soils of the tiny subregion of l’Étoile draw out complexity and depth in whites in this style. Nicole Deriaux heads the Domaine de Montbourgeau, which dominates the Étoile appellation even with only nine hectares under cultivation. This white, which consists mostly of chardonnay with some savagnin, beautifully displays the aromatics and flavors that can develop from sous voile aging. Golden raisin, hazelnut, and vanilla blossom lead to a palate of tangy apple, with beautiful texture and a finish of citrus and hazelnut skin. Organically grown, low-intervention/natural wine.