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No account of the estates of the Mosel would be complete without an account of Joh. Jos. (often referred to more simply as J-J) Prüm, which is without doubt a leader in the region, and thus in all Germany. The family has been tending vines on the banks of the Mosel river since the 17th century, but the current estate only came into being in 1911, when the family vineyards and original estates were divided between two grandchildren; this share taken by Johann Josef Prüm, and still family owned and operated with the fourth generation. (The other portion taken by Sebastein Alois Prüm also still exists today under the name SA Prüm.) They have several vineyards, and this riesling comes from the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr vineyard, the northernmost site which directly borders the northern edge of the Wehlener Sonnenuhr. ‘Sonnenuhr’ means ‘sundial’, and both sites are named after the sundials located in the vineyards. While both sites have similar steepness and sun exposure, the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr has far thinner topsoil, and the grapevine roots quickly hit slate bedrock. Prüm’s vines are located around the sundial, and range between 60-70 years in age. Wines from this vineyard are noted for their complexity and power, and the 2019 vintage is highly extracted and intense, with notes of mineral and smoke.
GK: A short gold capsule usually means a presence of botrytis, and a long gold capsule represents a remarkably higher percentage of botrytis and consequently concentration close in quality and style to a Beerenauslese.
“Pungent but introvert nose. Delicate but sweet with wild-hedgerow aromas. This is very pretty indeed. Already quite evolved. So feather-light!” - Jancis Robinson 17.5