Joh. Jos. Prüm Riesling Kabinett Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2018

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Joh. Jos. Prüm Riesling Kabinett Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2018
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Country Germany
Region Mosel
Appellation/Sub-Region Mosel
Grapes Riesling
Vineyard/Cellar Practices Organically Grown, Vegan

No account of the estates of the Mosel would be complete without an account of Joh. Jos. (often referred to more simply as J-J) Prüm, which is without doubt a leader in the region, and thus in all Germany. The family has been tending vines on the banks of the Mosel river since the 17th century, but the current estate only came into being in 1911, when the family vineyards and original estates were divided between two grandchildren; this share taken by Johann Josef Prüm, and still family owned and operated with the fourth generation. (The other portion taken by Sebastein Alois Prüm also still exists today under the name SA Prüm.) They have several vineyards, and this riesling comes from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard, one that has become associated with Prüm as the estate owns five ha of this iconic site. (‘Sonnenuhr’ means ‘sundial’, and it was J.J Prüm’s ancestor, Jodocus Prüm, who erected the sundial in the Wehlener Sonnenuhr in 1842.) The Wehlener Sonnenuhr is perfectly suited for the riesling grape, with deep soils of weathered gray slate, steepness approaching 70% gradient, and ideal south-southwest exposure. The wines of the Wehlener Sonnenuhr are famed for their structure, elegant ripe stone fruit aromas, fine-grained minerality, and impressive depth. Aging only further intensifies the unique balance, character, and expression of these remarkable wines. 

A warmer, drier year than average resulted in an early harvest of the 2018 vintage, yielding “...clean, bright fruit with no rot made for a beautiful range of prädikat wines. 2018 was a plentiful year for Kabinett. Despite the warmth of the vintage, the wines were picked with naturally low pH levels and remain structured with beautiful freshness and balance.” (Jake Halper, importer)

Stuart Pigott writes ‘Joh Jos Prüm’s Sonnenuhrs are classic examples of the way in which the best Mosel wine’s natural sweetness magnifies, rather than obscures, their character.’”

The 2018 Kabinett drives that point home, with shimmering aromas of honeysuckle, stone fruit, herbs, and wet rocks, that open up to a zesty, off-dry palate that balances succulent pineapple, nectarine, and Meyer lemon notes against a vibrant framework of bright acidity. This is a textural gem that is silky and mouth filling, delivering serious structure and length with a smoky, slate-lined finish that lingers for ages. Organically grown, vegan.