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Though Marie-Noëlle Ledru’s Champagnes have always been in demand, those rare bottles that remain are now collectors’ editions. After thirty-two vintages, the result of meticulous work in the vineyard and the cellar, Ledru retired from winemaking in 2016. This 2014 blanc de noirs, then, is one of the last dated vintages to bear her name. The Cuvée du Goulté is Ledru’s top cuvée, derived from her 2-hectare (5-acre) plot of 40-year-old pinot noir vines on the southern slope of the Montagne de Reims, above the village of Ambonnay. Throughout her career, Ledru tended the vines and worked the chalky soils of the vineyards’ steep slopes herself, using no herbicides or pesticides. The wines are fermented in steel tanks and allowed to undergo malolactic fermentation because Ledru believes it is natural for wines to do so. The bottles are also disgorged by hand. This 2014 vintage displays power and finesse, with aromas of apple, citrus, and nuts, herbs and spices on the palate, and a precise acidity to tie it all together. Feel free to drink it soon, though it will age beautifully as well.