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|Vineyard/Cellar Practices||Certified Organic, Low-Intervention/Natural Wine, Vegan|
“I don’t think we make wines that are everyone’s darlings. We make wines that are polarizing in many ways. They don’t represent pattern, cliché, or any other stereotype.” — Jochen Dreissigacker
The Rheinhessen wine region is vast in hectares under vine, however only a handful of superstar producers have emerged, notably Philipp Wittmann and Klaus-Peter Keller. Jochen Dreissigacker has his sights set on joining the Rheinhessen elite, and by our measure, he’s quickly ascending to the throne. Though born into a winemaking family and passionate about the craft, Jochen was encouraged to pursue a career as an accountant as his older brother Christian was set to inherit the family winery. But for anyone who has seen season one of Netflix’s The Crown or has a familiarity with the contemporary history of the British Royal family, primogeniture and succession are a...wiley combo. Jochen indeed followed his desire to become a winemaker, apprenticing under the legendary Klaus-Peter Keller. With Christian having taken the winemaking role at Weingut Dr. Koehler in the Rheinhessen, Jochen was next in line to take the reins of the family estate while still in his early 20s. After taking the helm, Jochen’s first order of business was converting to organic viticulture, and the second, tightening the winery’s focus to trocken (dry) style wine. The latter decision, a reflection of his intensely personal winemaking style, was off-putting to many of the winery’s long-time customers: Dreissigacker lost roughly 70% of regular business in those early years. But the synergy of Jochen’s conversion to organic farming (certified in 2007), increased experience in the cellar, and acquisition of parcels in Grosse Lagen Morstein and Kirchspiel, elevated the range of wines to new heights and earned the young Dreissigacker a new generation of adoring fans.
The Kirchspiel site is a sheltered amphitheater of pure limestone subsoil beneath clay and marl. Vines face east and southeast towards the Rhine. Dreissigacker shares this site with the legendary Klaus-Peter Keller, and this cuvée is essentially a declassified GG. In contrast to the smoky, starchy texture of the Geyersberg, the Kirchspiel is salty and crunchy, with impressive length. Incredibly expressive and focused, this is linear and lengthy. The fruit and acid are turned way up here, leaning towards concentrated/preserved fruits - think grapefruit marmalade or apricot coulis, with a definite citrus presence of makrut lime, yuzu, sudachi, and lemongrass. The long, hefty finish is savory and saline, with flinty mineral notes. Certified organic, low-intervention/natural wine, vegan.