Absentee Winery 'Red' Mendocino 2023

Absentee Winery may very well be the antithesis of the California of Robert Parker’s dreams. We’re here for it. Winemaker Avi Deixler began making completely natural wines in Point Reyes, California back in 2016 and has gained a passionate and excited following since. Recently he procured a new facility in Mendocino where he’s got lofty goals for the future of Absentee, like adding whites to his lineup of offerings. Grapes are fermented in barrels crafted by Avi himself and are farmed organically, treated only with elemental sulphur, nothing else. Fruit for ‘Red’ was purchased from the Poor Ranch in Hopland, Mendocino, which is dry farmed and has been organic since its inception in the 1970s. Hailing from 10-40 year old vines, this carignan dominated blend is vinified whole cluster with a two week maceration in raw, French Oak barrique that is shaved by Avi before every new fermentation. Barrels are sealed and rolled every few days then grapes are pressed and returned to the same barrel for a year before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. Welcome to Funky Town, this wine is raw and unapologetically bold. Berries burst on the palate but are grounded by a stemmy, tannic edge. A hint of Good and Plenty dark licorice slithers on the palate alongside an iron rich minerality. Think Canary Island volcanic crunch by way of Cali. Big, but still chillable, this is the red to see you through the sunny months. Not for the faint of heart, but worth a walk on the wild side. Organically grown, low-intervention/natural wine, vegan.