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Derrumbes approaches mezcal with terroir as a guiding principle. Each bottling focuses on one region specifically, encompassing the varieties of agave and varied production styles of that place. While we cannot come close to saying that these bottlings are definitive of each state they represent, they are a great snapshot of mezcal’s eccentricity based on location. The team behind this brand is Venenosa’s Esteban Garibi and Sergio Mendoza Garcia of Don Fulano, two well-established names in the artisanal spirits world of Mexico. Also typically less smoky than mezcal from Oaxaca, the maestro mezcalero places wood on top of the still, which absorbs some of the smoke. This mezcal is 100% Durangensis, called cinezo locally, fermented with wild yeast in wood then distilled in a combination of wood and copper stills. Distilled to 48.1% abv, this mezcal captures some heady aromatics. The palate explodes with tropical fruit and a distinct Parmesan cheese umami funk. Now we’re dipping our toes in the mezcal deep end.