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Derrumbes approaches mezcal with terroir as a guiding principle. Each bottling focuses on one region specifically, encompassing the varieties of agave and varied production styles of that place. While we cannot come close to saying that these bottlings are definitive of each state they represent, they are a great snapshot of mezcal’s eccentricity based on location. The team behind this brand is Venenosa’s Esteban Garibi and Sergio Mendoza Garcia of Don Fulano, two well-established names in the artisanal spirits world of Mexico. There are very few mezcals from the San Luis Potosi state available outside of the region itself. This one is unique for a couple of reasons: 1) the 19th century oven used to cook the agave is above ground, imparting less of a smoky influence and 2) the wild Salmiana variety of agave is super low-yielding, needing about 4 times as many plants to make the same amount of liquid as Espadin. Not to mention, Salmiana displays incredible peppery and vegetal flavors, reminiscent of a delectable, earthy Loire Valley cabernet franc.