Fumey-Chatelain 'Savagnin Ouillé' Arbois AOC 2021

Poised at the intersection of tradition and contemporary ambition, Domaine Fumey-Chatelain was founded 30 years ago by Raphaël Fumey (cousin of Stéphane Tissot and Frédéric Lornet) and his wife, Adeline Chatelain. The estate’s 17 hectares of organically farmed vines lies in Montigny-lès-Arsures in the Arbois appellation. Today the couple’s energetic son, Marin, heads the winemaking duties, and has continued the domaine’s commitment to organic and biodynamic viticulture. Savagnin (the ancient, somewhat obscure grape that is the signature varietal of the Jura) comes to showstopping life in this cuvée, made in the ouille (non-oxidative) style. The fruit comes from 50 year old vines grown organically in black marl soils on the north side of the lieu-dit “Sauvagny”, and is direct pressed and fermented with ambient yeasts in old barrels. After 19 months of aging on lees in barrel (with topping up), the wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered. In the glass it displays a multifaceted, structured character, with lively floral and herbal notes and layers of fresh green pear and apple floating over a savory core that unfurls layers of sea salt, raw milk cheese, and distinctive minerality. A stunner that’s ready for pairing with food now, but will happily age for several more years. Organically grown, biodynamically grown, low-intervention/natural wine.