Stein Rosé Mosel 2023

Dr. Ulrich Stein—Ulli, to his friends—is a winemaker’s winemaker. He lives in an old inn that looks like a castle and makes wine from some of the steepest, least accessible vineyards in the Mosel. His preference has long been for dry wines, in a region where late-harvest rieslings have a long, storied history. This, one of the rare rosés produced in the Mosel, is as distinctive in its way as any Stein wine. The curious mix of pinot noir, dornfelder, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and sangiovese coheres into an attention-grabbing wine with a serious depth of flavor. Subtly smoky peach and Rainier cherry are tied together by a through-line of acidity that persists through a long finish. Organically grown, low-intervention/natural wine.